Like most things in life there’s a right and wrong way to do things. When it comes to testing your bike and tuning for performance, now that’s certainly something you want to get right.
Whilst in most cases a dyno test procedure is fairly similar, here’s a checklist for the specific to the old faithful BMW S10000RR by BrenTuning.
– Chain at proper slack and lubricated
– Rear tire at 38-42PSI
– Clean air filter, OEM, BMC race or Sprinter only
– Bike not equipped with block off plates
– Proper fuel (higher is fine, lower is not) for current map.
– O2 sensors installed in midpipe if bung is applicable (more accurate reading than from tail)
– TPS throttle reset and is aligned to 0-100% (2010-2014 bikes)
– Use 5th gear on a Dynojet. Use 4th gear on a Mustang or eddy current style dyno (3500-14200 rpm)
– Wideband O2 sensor (there is no use in doing pulls without this and then being upset when you have no DATA!). Preferably a dual channel which means using two sensors. We have seen tons of bad sensors on dynos, even in house we have issues with ours from time to time.
– Coolant temp in the 180-200* range
– Air intake temp under 100* (easy on the 2015 model)
– Adequate fans to simulate on road airflow, 80+ MPH
– SAE/STD Corrected weather station
– Do 5-7 wide open pulls through the RPM range mentioned above with 1 minute rest in between pulls, follow this with 5 minutes of idling and 1 minute of riding at cruising speeds.
– After 5-7 pulls the peak power will be optimized and plateau. Shut bike off for 10 minutes and re-run 3 pulls.
– Do not expect good results from a “1-3 back to back run” dyno operator with no air fuel recording. There is no point in even strapping the bike. You will walk away wasting your time, money and you will be disappointed!
– The key is to have the bike hot, fluid and chain wise, but ambient air temps and coolant temps to not exceed values where compensation and power reducing settings come into play.
No additional power or showing a power loss over previous dyno baseline?
– Are you on the same machine, same gear, same conditions (similar), same day, same correction factor (SAE)? If not, disregard comparison.
– Are you in Slick mode/Race mode for these runs?
– Is your octane fit for the map (running 89 octane on a 93 octane file)? If not you will not see advantages of ignition restrictions and modifications. Try new tank of fuel, there are such things as a bad tank of premium pump gas. We also recommend and endorse adding Torco Accelerator to stabilize ignition on hot days or if you have poor fuel quality.
– Is the bikes intake air / coolant temp unrealistic? The best range before compensations occur is 185-200*F coolant throughout the pulls, and under 95*F intake air temp.
– Have you checked for pending or stored codes – mechanical faults, codes, old plugs, clogged filters, loose chain, low tire pressure?
– Adaptation, did you reset the mapping right on the dyno? The bike needs a moment for calibration to re-learn fuel, spark, quick shifter, throttle tables etc. 6-7 WOT runs with cool down usually sets this or until the bike stops making power. Shut it off, wait 15 minutes and re-run
– Do you have proper fans to simulate closed to the mile per hour in what gear you are running? 160 mph 5th gear pulls with a box fan, is not going to yield the proper result and the bike will lose power with each pull. Another waste of your time. We personally have two huge 48” shop fans, an exhaust fan to channel it through and four carpet drying style fans.
– Recommended: Have a GS-911 on hand to reset fuel, ignition, knock adaptations after a reflash to get the full benefit of the flash and no lingering trims from the stock tune.
– With all the above 100%, is the Air Fuel off the target (tuner dictated for your setup)? 2010-2014 bikes – 12.5-13.1 average 2015 bikes – 12.1-12.8 average. These bikes are not the same as the GSX-R that your dyno operator is used to seeing!
Common problems with these bikes:
– Poor octane — these bikes perform half as well on ACN91 octane as they do on 93+.
– Loose spark plugs or coils, we have near brand new bikes with coils that are half fallen out and skipping at low rpm.
– Spark plugs that are finger tight.
– K&N or other non-recommended air filters or air box mods sold by competitors that lose power. The best filter out there is the Sprinter filer, second best would be the BMC Race filter.
– Loose and non-lubed chain.
– Low rear tire pressure.
– Dyno operator not testing completely.
– Assuming that anything other than a FLAT 13.1 AFR is bad is the wrong train of thought. Old school dyno operators who have tuned bikes of yesteryear believe that AFR should be flat, that is not the case with these bikes.
– We have seen many bikes with poorly sealed air pump block off plates.
– Stuck exhaust valves.
– O2 sensor faults from a PC5/Bazazz uninstall forcing bike into unfavorable open loop tuning scenario.
– TPS fault from blotched PC5/Bazazz install causing limp mode and not full throttle opening.
– Ambient temps too hot. In hotter climates over 100*F and humid the bike will be dynoing with temperature compensation tables in place (which induces a power loss).
ALL of these listed troubleshooting and problem areas will divert the bike away from it’s target air fuel and produce less than favorable results. We hope that this can clear up some of the issues that we have seen from customers of ours. If you dyno the bike and do not have favorable results, please reach out to us. Don’t panic. Don’t think the bike is going to blow up. We will figure out the issue and help you along the way. Pulling the ECU and having a dealer flash it back to stock is not helping anyone. If you take the time to dyno your bike, please take the time to get DATA. Without the data we cannot help remotely.
Article and Image Source: S1000RR Forum by BrenTuning.